Water Heater Repair & Replacement: Same Day Service

Signs Your Water Heater Is Failing

Water heaters usually give warning before they fail. Rumbling, hot water that runs out sooner than it used to, or rusty water from the hot side are all signs the tank is wearing out. A leak from the bottom of the tank is the one sign that means it's done.

• No hot water, or hot water runs out quickly (see no hot water troubleshooting)
• Water pooling around the base of the tank (see water heater leaking)
• Rumbling or popping noises, a sign of sediment buildup
• Rusty or discolored hot water
• The pilot light on a gas unit won't stay lit
• The water heater is more than 10 years old

How to Tell How Old Your Water Heater Is

Age is the first thing a plumber asks about, because it decides whether a repair is worth paying for. Check the rating label on the side of the tank. Many labels print the manufacture date. If yours doesn't, the date is coded into the serial number, usually as a month and year, but each brand uses its own format, and the manufacturer's website or support line can decode it.

A tank past about 10 years that's showing the warning signs above is usually a candidate for replacement rather than another repair.

When a Water Heater Problem Is an Emergency

A water heater problem is an emergency when it's causing damage or a safety risk, not just when there's no hot water. A tank leaking onto the floor, a relief valve that won't stop discharging, or any smell of gas needs attention right away, and an emergency plumber can come out nights and weekends.

• Water is leaking from the bottom of the tank.
• The temperature and pressure relief valve keeps discharging.
• You smell gas near a gas water heater. Leave and call the gas utility from outside.
• Scorch marks, sooting or a yellow flame appear at the burner of a gas unit.

How to Shut Down a Leaking Water Heater

1. Turn off power at the breaker (electric), or set the gas control to off or pilot.
2. Close the cold water inlet valve on top of the heater.
3. If the tank is leaking, attach a garden hose to the drain valve and drain it to a floor drain or outside.
4. If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility from outside.

What Water Heater Repair Involves

The plumber starts by working out whether the heater can be repaired. On an electric unit, that usually means testing the elements and thermostats; on a gas unit, the thermocouple, gas valve and burner. If the tank itself is leaking or the heater is near the end of its life, they'll talk through replacement instead.

1. Check the power or gas supply, the thermostat, and the pilot or ignition system.
2. Test components: heating elements and thermostats on electric units, or the thermocouple, gas valve and burner on gas units.
3. Inspect the tank, the temperature and pressure relief valve, and the connections for leaks.
4. Repair the failed part, or recommend replacement if the tank itself is leaking or the unit is near the end of its life.
5. For a replacement, size the new unit to household demand and install it to local code, with a permit where required.

Repair or Replace: How the Decision Is Made

Every part of a water heater can be replaced except the tank itself, so most decisions come down to the tank's condition and age.

• Repair makes sense when a replaceable part has failed and the tank is sound: a heating element, thermostat, thermocouple, gas valve, igniter, or the temperature and pressure relief valve.
• Replacement is the only fix when the tank is leaking, because a leak from the tank means the inner lining has corroded through.
• Replacement is worth weighing when the heater is near the end of its typical 8 to 12 year life and needs an expensive part, since the next failure may be the tank.
• A replacement is the natural time to change types, for example from tank to tankless, because the gas, venting or electrical work happens anyway.

Tank, Tankless or Heat Pump: Replacement Options

Tank (storage)

The most common type. Keeps 30 to 80 gallons of heated water ready to use.

Tankless (on-demand)

Heats water as it flows, so it doesn't run out. May need gas line or electrical upgrades.

Heat pump

A very efficient electric option. Needs room around the unit and works best in a warm space.

Sizing a Replacement Water Heater

A tank heater is sized by its first-hour rating: how many gallons of hot water it can deliver in an hour starting with a full tank. It's printed on the yellow EnergyGuide label. Match it to your busiest hour, such as back-to-back morning showers, not just the number of bathrooms.

A tankless heater is sized by flow rate, in gallons per minute, at the temperature rise you need. The colder the water coming into the house, the bigger that rise, so the same unit delivers less hot water in a cold climate than a warm one. Gas tankless units also usually need more gas than a tank heater, which can mean a larger line; see gas line installation.

What Affects the Cost of Water Heater Repair or Replacement

The biggest cost difference is repair versus replacement. After that, the price depends on the type of heater, where it's installed and what has to be updated to meet current code.

• Repair or replacement. Replacing a thermostat, element or thermocouple costs far less than a new heater.
• Fuel type and size. Gas, electric, heat pump and tankless units differ in equipment and installation work.
• Switching types. Going from tank to tankless can mean a larger gas line, new venting or an electrical upgrade.
• Location and access. A heater in an attic, crawl space or tight closet takes more labor to remove and install.
• Code updates. Expansion tanks, earthquake strapping, drain pans and venting may need to be brought up to current code.
• Permit requirements, which vary by city.

Mistakes That Shorten a Water Heater's Life

• Capping or plugging a dripping relief valve. The valve is a safety device. If it drips, find out why; a small drip after heating often means thermal expansion, which an expansion tank solves.
• Restoring power to an electric heater before the tank is full. An element that heats without water around it can burn out almost immediately.
• Skipping flushes in hard water. Sediment settles over the lower element or burner, causing rumbling, slow recovery and early failure.
• Ignoring the anode rod. This metal rod corrodes so the steel tank doesn't. Once it's used up, the tank itself starts to rust.
• Storing gasoline, paint or solvents near a gas water heater, where fumes can reach the burner.

How Hard Water Shortens Water Heater Life in Some Cities

Water hardness is the biggest local factor in how long a tank water heater lasts. Utilities in Las Vegas (16 to 17 grains per gallon), San Antonio (15 to 20), Phoenix (about 10 to 16) and Indianapolis (about 19 on average) report very hard water. In those cities, sediment builds up in the bottom of the tank faster, which causes rumbling, slower recovery and earlier failure, so annual flushing and a water softener make a real difference.

In soft-water cities like Boston, Portland, Seattle and Memphis, scale is rarely the problem, and tanks more often fail from age and corrosion. In California cities such as Los Angeles and San Diego, any replacement must also be strapped or braced for earthquakes under state law.

Local plumbing details: Las Vegas, San Antonio, Phoenix, Indianapolis, Boston, Portland, Los Angeles

Water Heaters by City

What our city pages say about water heaters:

• Greensboro, NC: With a median home built in 1985, many water heaters are due; installation requires a permit.
• La Riviera, CA: Homes from the 1960s and 1970s are on their third or fourth tank.
• Bryan, TX: Rental houses and 1990s homes are due for new tanks.
• Tempe, AZ: Sediment shortens tank life, and many heaters sit in hot garages or outdoor closets.
• LaGrange, GA: Homes from the 1980s are on their third tank.
• Idaho Falls, ID: Scale and age wear tanks out in 1970s and 1980s homes.
• Leawood, KS: Homes from the 1980s and 1990s are on their second or third tank.
• Grand Junction, CO: Tanks from the 1990s and 2000s rust out and leak at the base.

What to Have Ready Before the Plumber Arrives

If you haven't already, check the heater's age using the label (see above). Beyond that, a few details help the plumber bring the right parts.

• Whether it's gas, electric or tankless, and the tank size in gallons.
• A photo of the rating label and the pipe connections on top of the tank.
• Clear access to the heater, including a path to carry the old one out if it's being replaced.

After a Repair or New Installation

New water heaters and repaired ones both need a short check-in over the first few days, mostly for leaks at the connections.

• Check the connections and the floor around the heater over the first few days for drips.
• Keep the area around a gas unit clear so it gets enough air for combustion.
• Flush the tank on the schedule the plumber suggests, more often if your water is hard.
• Test the temperature and pressure relief valve once a year by lifting its lever briefly; water should flow and then stop.

Water Heater Questions Homeowners Ask